The Miracle at Santo Domingo

Hello from Santo Domingo de la Calzada in the heart of Spanish wine country. Over the last few days I have walked passed acres upon acres of vinyards. Unfortunately it is not the season for the grapes. I would love to come see this some time in the fall.

I´ve also been walking past fields of asparagus, the plants covered in black plastic (so the asparagus remains white instead of green). They´re serving it a lot right now in the restaurants…delicious!

The town I´m in now is famous along the Camino for the miracle that supposedly occurred here during medieval times. A husband, wife and son were walking to Santiago and they stopped here for the night. The innkeeper´s daughter took a liking to the boy, but when he didn´t return her affections she got angry, hid a silver goblet in his things, and the next day accused him a stealing it. He was quickly tried and hanged.

His bereaved parents went on to Santiago, and when they returned, their son was still hanging from a tree and was still alive, since he was being held up by Saint himself (Santo Domingo). They ran to tell the local sheriff (or whatever the equivalent was at the time), who was in the middle of eating a dinner of rooster and chicken. The sheriff  said that the boy was no more alive than the poultry were, at which point the birds flew off his plate. He quickly had the son cut down from the tree and the boy was given a full pardon.

The albergue where I am staying still keeps chickens in a coop in the back yard. I think they are used in the church, where there is a live display that tells this story. I haven´t yet been the the church to see this, nor am I sure it appeals to me. At the end of a long day of walking, sightseeing is never at the top of my list of things to do.

I have now walked just over 200 kilometres: a quarter of the distance. If all goes well I should be in Santiago in just over three weeks.


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