By the time I arrived at Eunate I was beat. There had been no shade on this leg of the trip, and the temperature had climbed to what I guessed was the high 20s. But the inside of the church was invitingly cool. I could have laid down on one of the stone benches and stayed there for the rest of the day.
This 12th century church was apparently used originally as a burial church for those pilgrims who had succumbed to the physical hardships of the trail. It was linked to the Knights Templar who worked for the protection of pilgrims. I found the unadorned simplicity of the building so beautiful.
A group of Germans arrived about this time and I admit to feeling annoyed at their intrusion of ‘my’ experience (how selfish of me!). But they quickly won me over when they sat in the pews, pulled out song sheets, and began singing a Lutheran hymn. The acoustics in the church were amazing and the music was so beautiful it brought tears to my eyes. The memory of that music is one that I’ll carry with me for a very long time.
It was with great reluctance that I left the church and headed back to the main trail and on to Puente La Reina.