My plan had been to walk to Tosantos, about 20 kilometres away. The albergue there was a popular one among pilgrims and it would be a manageable distance for my still recovering knees. But when I arrived, something pushed me to walk on. So I did. I ended up stopping in the next village, which had little more than the albergue and one small bar.
Once I had checked in, I wondered if I’d made the wrong decision. There was absolutely nothing to do here; no interesting old churches to explore, no stores to buy picnic supplies for the following day. There was only one other person here – a young man from South Korea – and he didn’t seem too interested in conversation. So I did the only thing I could think to do…I slept. It was a gloriously long, restorative nap, and when I woke up I felt like a different person.
I went downstairs to the bar and had my customary glass of red wine and watched music videos on Spanish TV while I waited for dinner to be prepared. Just then another pilgrim showed up. It turns out she was a friend of the South Korean man and he all of a sudden came to life and wanted to chat. So the three of us had a great meal together. We then turned in for the night. Thankfully no one snored and I had one of the best night’s sleeps I’d had in days.
So yes, in spite of them being practical jokers, the Camino gods did come through for me. And just in time too. I had a big day planned for tomorrow.