It was lunch time when Jo Anne, Moya and I arrived in Melide, famous for its pulpo. We stopped at a restaurant and while I passed on the octopus, I did have a delicious caldo gallego (a soup of kale, potatoes and white beans). It had become my favourite dish in Galicia. What I had all but stopped eating was the crusty white bread that came with every meal – breakfast, lunch and dinner. I craved a hearty multi-grain loaf; I declared I could never face white bread again!
When we arrived in Arzua, we were wet and tired. We checked out the albergues but they all had a huge number of beds (30 plus) packed into each room. The rooms stank of sweaty bodies and damp clothes. We decided we just weren’t up for the experience. Instead we found a little hotel and for 36 euros I had my own room with a double bed and a bathroom with a tub. Lovely!
We had dinner downstairs: 12 euros for lentil soup, chicken and potatoes, and flan. Carmel joined us afterwards for wine, along with a 66-year-old Irish lady who has travelled all over the world. She just came back a few months ago from climbing Kilimanjaro! She was beaming; you could tell she had embraced all that life had to offer.