Cee to Finisterre – Part 1

Walked today: 12 kilometres
Total travelled: 888.1 kilometres

What a glorious final morning of walking! The weather was great, as was the company. I walked with Chris and Matteo. Chris is one of those people you can’t help but like. Just about everyone I met on the Camino knew him and when they talked about Chris they would always break out in a big smile. As for Matteo, I found myself secretly wishing he were my son-in-law. I liked everything about him…he was polite, highly principled, sensitive, had a good sense of humour and was clearly intelligent. Although young, he already has one novel published and is working on another. I will be interested to find out how the Camino weaves itself into one of his future books.

You’d think that a couple of 20-somethings wouldn’t be too keen on hanging out with an old lady like me. But they were both very gracious about me tagging along. That’s one thing I noticed about the Camino…age seems pretty irrelevant.  

 It was an exciting moment when we caught our first glimpse of the ocean. We stopped long enough to snap some photos and then quickly covered the last few kilometres into Finisterre, celebrating our arrival with some chocolate that Chris had purchased a couple of days earlier.

This arrival couldn’t have been more different than the one into Santiago. There were no big crowds; no feeling of having landed in a bit of a tourist trap. Instead there was just a small town with a beautiful view of the ocean. I felt so happy and at peace with the world; everything was perfect.

We checked into what would be my last albergue of the trip and then went to find some lunch. On the way I met Ralph, a German man about my age whom both Chris and Matteo had come to know earlier on the Camino. He ate with us and later came with us to both local beaches – the Atlantic beach for the big waves and the inner beach for the abundance of seashells. We also ran into Zeno who had walked very fast all the way from Olveiroa to arrive only a few hours after we did. It turns out he had managed to find a bed in Olveiroa after all, thank goodness.

We all collected great piles of scallop and other shells until we realized we couldn’t possibly carry all of them home so we had to pare them down to our favourites. We relaxed on the beach, letting the sun do its work on our Camino-weary bodies, and talked about our plans for the evening. We would walk out to the lighthouse located on the farthest point of land in Finisterre, watch the sun go down, and perform a ritual burning of – among other things – the Holy Ham. The Holy Ham, you ask? That’s a story that deserves a posting all of its own.

Our first glimpse of Finisterre
A closer view
Matteo with a heart shaped piece of bark we found coming into town
Close up shot of the heart
Part of my lunch - squid cooked in its own ink
Ralph holding the Holy Ham. The mystery of the ham will be revealed in my next posting.

The beach on the Atlantic side
It felt so good to be on the ocean again!


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